Viñales

Despite that my best friend told me I would enjoy the countryside and rural Cuba the most, and that I needed to "get out of Havana as soon as you get there", everything had it's place. So for those who loved the towns, the country had its place too; it reminded me so much of rural Jamaica. It was something to experience, and more enlightenment on all that Cuba is...

The trip to Viñales was almost ruined when what I thought was just a straight bus ride was announced, via a microphoned woman up front, as a tour. I seethed for the length Central Havana and then conceded defeat. It turns out that until we got to the Tobacco farm, where the maestro roller pictured up top was demonstrating the art of stogey-making, the "tour" was just the microphoned woman talking. I survived.

                                                       

The Cuban Five - a group of revolutionary intelligence officers that were convicted of espionage and conspiracy to commit murder, and the entire country is confident will eventually be freed. It seems they may have been from Viñales, 'cause their image was all over. Even on the farm, two feet from the rows of plants.

                                    

Tobacco leaves hanging in the A-frame shed. I thought they shredded the leaves somehow and then wrapped them, but apparently a cigar is just a bunch of full-sized leaves rolled together. Who'd a thunk it?

                                                     

My farmer and the Cuban farmer. Can you tell which is which?

The money shot: old car, country road. Can't say fairer than that.

                                 

I would say Viñales has a population of about 100, 135 when tourists roll in; it looked like something out of No country for Old Men. Yet, down a dirt road, amid three bedroom haciendas with barefoot children running with sticks, the revolution lives on.

                                     

What attracted me to Viñales was pictures I had seen of those massive limestone karsts visible in the background. They just rise up ethereally around the town. In the re-make, Julie Andrews sings, "The hills are aliiiiiiiiivvvve with smell of tobacco....."

                                                         

The personalities of Viñales were fun to people-watch. This guy looked like he was in for the night. It was a long call, he had to make himself comfortable.

                                     

This guy asked me about his picture, "Handsome, no?" Si, Senor.

                                    

Everyone around was lining up to get these rectangular cakes that they serve you on slab of cardboard. I learned the hard way that no store in Cuba has shopping bags (much less boxes), you have to bring your own. I left a little bakery we found with about 15 individual mini-bread rolls piled in my hands. I kept trying to get a shot of people with their cake, but they were grabbing it and going, so I came upon this little familia who were nice and stationary. 

                                      

Speaking of familias, Christopher and I met the coolest one, during our Viñales home-stay. We have Olga (2nd left), her daughter Olgita (little Olga) and Olga's hubby. They chatted with us and talked about the Cuban government and life in Cuba and (gasp!) the fact that they are not rushing to get to the States and stay, despite that they have family. They also made us the most awesomest, scrumptiousest dinner of the whole trip! We were a little concerned about having lobster in the middle of a farming valley miles from the sea, but who'd a thunk it. Better than anything we ate the WHOLE trip.

                                      

Sautéed lobster, green tomato salad, black beans and steamed rice. I peered into my squeaky clean lobster tail, scavenging for more. It was awesomeness embodied!

Lobster: It's what's for dinner! 

Till next time.........